Barbecue wars

Okay, here’s the deal. What kind of meat, what kind of sauce, what cooking method, what kind of firewood or heat, and how it is served. Much to consider. And one thing’s for sure – we’re not talking about a Weber backyard grill, folks. This is serious business, so let’s get down to business.

In the South, especially North Carolina, the most popular outdoor version is the “hog picking.” The name of the Cajun phrase pig, traditional southern barbecue grew out of these gatherings, which involved a whole pig roasted for hours, and then letting guests choose their own meat from the finished product (hence the phrase “go all the pig”).

But each region has its own version, usually pork, and the sauce is what makes the difference. In North Carolina, the three varieties of sauces include vinegar in the east, tomato vinegar, sometimes mustard, in the central state, and a thicker tomato-based sauce in western North Carolina. The city of Lexington, northeast of Charlotte, bills itself as the “BBQ Capital of the World,” with one barbecue restaurant for every 1,000 people (talk about going crazy). And throughout the South, meat is more likely to be served on a plate, accompanied by hush puppies, coleslaw, and baked beans, not on a bun dipped in tomato sauce (in some places it’s considered a capital crime). When ordered, it is simply called Q and the sides are a given. (In Texas, you might get thick toast, but that’s another story.)

According to South Carolinians, only in their state will you find the four “official” sauces: mustard-based, vinegar-based, light or heavy tomato-based. To the west, Memphis barbecue prefers tomato and vinegar-based sauces, and in some restaurants (or more likely barbecue shacks) the meat is rubbed with a mixture of dry seasonings before being smoked over wood. Don’t even think about charcoal briquettes, considered a misdemeanor to say the least. Dry rub ingredients are a closely guarded secret that sets them apart from the street guy. There may not even be a sauce drizzled over the meat, just served on the side.

Moving forward, in Alabama, Georgia, and Tennessee, barbecue is typically pork, drenched in a sweet red sauce. Some rebels even dare to use a sauce based on vinegar mayonnaise, mostly on chicken (which isn’t actually considered true barbecue, anyway). A popular item in North Carolina and Memphis is the pulled pork sandwich served on a bun and often topped with coleslaw. Shredded pork is prepared by shredding the pork after grilling and then stacking it.

In the Midwest, we are talking Kansas City style, which is characterized by using different types of meat, which can be pork or ribs, smoked sausage, brisket or ribs, smoked / roasted chicken, smoked turkey and, sometimes fish. Phew. They leave nothing to chance, but remember, KC is a major meatpacking city, no vegetarians are allowed. Walnut wood offers the best flavor and the preferred sauce is tomato-based, spicy or mild. No silent puppies, remember you are in the Midwest. And in Chicago, when they’re not gobbling up Italian meat sandwiches, hot dogs, or pizza, they like to season the meat with a dry touch, brown it on a hot grill, and then cook it slowly in a special oven. The meat, typically ribs, is finished with a sweet and spicy red sauce. Don’t worry, they won’t arrest you if you order it on a muffin (just no tomato sauce, get it?). Side dishes can be cooked vegetables, mac n cheese, and sweet potatoes. Since many barbecue venues are located on the south side, they often include the main entry point at soul food restaurants.

The state of Kentucky has to be different, which is why lamb is its meat of choice. In Maryland, beef is the boletus and it is grilled over high heat, served rare with horseradish. It hardly even qualifies as barbecue, so why do we spend so much time on this?

Don’t mess with Texas, especially when it comes to barbecue. The bigger the better, and the Lone Star status takes no prisoners when it comes to its version (no other version, buddy). This tradition runs deep and giant barbecues, thanks in large part to the number of famous politicians who have hosted them over the years, try to diminish their contenders to the north by claiming the best barbecue in the world. The emphasis is on the meat itself, not a sauce. Generally, “Texas style” means “Central Texas style” and that means beef. The brisket is cooked over indirect heat, slow and slow. They prefer mesquite wood or a combination of walnut and oak, then served on plates with potato salad, beans, cabbage, and a large slice of Texas toast. This is serious eating, all of you.

And there you have it. Tiring, all these details and variations. who is hungry? What will you choose and where? So much barbecue, so little time.

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